Tuesday, July 27, 2010

Metal Gutter Maintenance

Metal gutters are an often overlooked part of your home, but an important one. A gutter that works properly can prevent serious potential problems like a cracked foundation and leaking basement, as well as other less-costly damage. Regular maintenance is the key to gutters that work as they should to prevent these problems.

Clogged Gutters

You can prevent clogged gutters and overflow by using a gutter cleanser system. Scoop out the build-up of leaves and sediment by hand, or use a pressure-washer attachment that can blast out anything blocking up your gutters. Check them at least twice a year, but seasonally is better. Prevent this from happening by using leaf strainers or a gutter guard to keep leaves and debris out, but still check your metal gutters a couple times a year for build-up that can get through the guards.

Repair

When you check gutters, look for corrosion, holes and other problems. You can patch these with a piece of guttering sealed on the inside of your existing gutter, but if they're too extensive you may need to replace an entire section. Make sure the gutter is still firmly attached to the fascia and that the wood is still in good solid condition. Keeping an eye on these things can help you catch small problems before they become big ones and keep your metal gutters in shape.

This article is taken form the following source: http://www.doityourself.com/stry/how-to-care-for-your-metal-gutters#ixzz0uuCLyz00


Copper Gutter Maintenance

How to Care for Your Copper Gutters


Caring for copper gutters is an important component of copper gutter ownership. These gutters are an investment, and you don't want to loose money due to neglect.

Copper gets a bluish green patina as it weathers and ages, and most people want that look.

Preventing it is nearly impossible since it is a byproduct of the natural oxidation of the copper. If you want to keep the bright copper color, consider a quality painted aluminum product that keeps the “penny copper” look.


To keep the shine and patina intact on the gutters, always wear cotton gloves when working with any piece of the gutter. The natural oils on the skin will remain on the gutters and will leave spots on them and mar the patina.

Careful Cleaning

Carefully maintain the gutters by keeping them free of debris and roof runoff. Use a soft plastic scoop to clean the gutters. If the scoop scratches the surface, using gloves to remove the organic matter is a good alternative.

Some people prefer to use cloth gloves, although they may get you hands wet, they do not scratch the surface of the copper. Watch your copper gutter for any sagging, loose brackets, or bending pieces. Repair or replace them promptly.

Copper Durabilty

Copper gutters are generally reliable and long lasting. There are many systems still running that have been in place and functioning for 50 to 80 years without a problem.

The systems that last that long have soldered seams and often has screens on the downspouts. They are also cleaned regularly. Roof debris as well as leaves can damage copper gutters, causing spots of discoloration, so clean them regularly.

This article is taken form the following source: http://www.doityourself.com/stry/how-to-care-for-your-copper-gutters#ixzz0uuBXEPYM

Gutter Guards for your New York Home

A lot of people forget to have gutter guards installed when they are installing a new gutter system Bronx or you may have moved into a house without gutter guards. This is definitely a mistake if you have trees around your property where leaves and needles might fall into your gutter system and clog it. Especially if you have a property that is two story and it is difficult to get access to your gutters for cleaning.

Gutter Guards Queens installed in your rain troughs are the simplest way of keeping them free of leaves and dirt. Keeping your gutters free of debris will not only keep your gutters from clogging but it will also prolong the life of your gutters.

Water is one of the most destructive forces your home faces therefore keeping water away from your home is imperative, water must be able to run off the roof into the rain troughs through your downspouts and either into the sewer system or routed out to the ground by a method that allows for proper drainage otherwise serious damage can occur which can lead to thousands of dollars in out of pocket expenses, some of which include: replacing rotted siding and sofits, replacing eroded landscaping and the most expensive repair of all basement waterproofing.

The best method in keeping your home safe and free of water damage while also keeping debris from piling up in the gutters is to have a good quality Gutters Brooklyn installed on your home. This will protect your home and gutters from many problems including the following:

Fascia board that get wet constantly causing damaged and rotting wood.

Damage to the roof from clogged gutters freezing in the winter causing ice damning.

Foundation walls that will end up cracking and leaking.

The erosion of soil from your yard.

Water seeping into the interior of your home.

Areas that stay damp and promote insects and mosquitoes.

Damp areas also promote the growth of dangerous mold.

Cleaning your gutters can be a dangerous activity, thousands of people end up hospitalized and some even die falling from ladders every year.

Cast Iron Gutters

Cast iron gutters can make any home look great and add to the curb appeal. When installed correctly, these gutters can last lifetimes with just simple maintenance. If you have cast iron gutters, here are a couple things you can do to ensure a long life for them.

Regular Cleaning
Settling sediment can be the death of cast iron gutters. Because of this, you should clean the gutters thoroughly at least once a year. Climb a ladder and remove debris by hand. Then spray a garden hose through the gutters to clean any small sediment that has built up.

Dealing with Leaks
Even though cast iron is a durable material, it can develop leaks around the joints and seams. When cast iron was first used in gutter systems, a pitch-soaked rope was used in the joints to form a water seal. This seal will degrade with time. You can use clear silicone and new joint bolts in the leaky joints. If the joints are especially difficult to reach, you may use a self-adhesive flashing tape over the inside part of the joint. You can paint over either of these options so the joint won't be noticeable.

This article is taken from the following: http://www.doityourself.com/stry/cast-iron-gutters-cleaning-and-maintenance#ixzz0uuB1lBjl


Mastic Home Exterior Vinyl Panels

Here is a press release I found for vinyl siding panels that look like cedar and clapboard wood siding. The improvements in vinyl siding have made it much more comparable to traditional siding:

Cary, N.C. (Jan. 20, 2008) – Mastic Home Exteriors™ by Ply Gem Quest®a premium vinyl siding panel with the classic look of authentic wood, features 35 vivid colors with the protection of the Duranyl® 5000 system on Quest Signature’s darkest colors.

Duranyl 5000 proprietary technology provides additional UV protection for superior color retention. Because of this, homeowners can be assured that the rich and vibrant color they choose from the industry’s broadest color offering will not fade or weather over time. Colorfastness combined with superior durability, which makes panels more resistant to cracking, impact and thermal distortion, means Quest’s beauty is engineered to last. Visit www.mastic.com for more information.


Power Washing Your Siding

Power Washing Vinyl and Aluminum Siding

If you decide to power wash your vinyl or aluminum siding, please be sure to read your power washer instructions carefully before you begin. When cleaning, hold the power washer straight at eye level. Don’t aim the washer upward as the water may collect behind the siding. This collected water could leak, which can produce streaks, or could stay behind the siding, which can cause decay. Set the pressure using a minimum of 1,500 PSI and maximum of 2,400, using a 40-degree tip.

Taken from: http://www.mastic.com/Homeowner/Learning_Center/Repair_Instructions/Maintenance___Repair.aspx


Choosing Vinyl or Aluminum for Your New York House

The Difference Between Vinyl and Aluminum Siding


Q. What is the difference between vinyl and aluminum siding?

A. Vinyl siding is an extruded plastic material. It usually ranges in thickness from .040 - .046. Aluminum siding is a formed material, typically .019" thick. Vinyl siding has a solid color, while aluminum siding has a baked on enamel paint finish.

Vinyl siding is typically more durable than aluminum being that it is over twice the thickness. Vinyl siding does become slightly brittle during the wintertime. Aluminum siding maintains the same properties year round despite the temperature. Vinyl siding also expands and contracts in greater fluctuation than aluminum siding.

As mentioned before, vinyl siding has solid color, meaning even if it is scratched, the color won't change. Aluminum siding has the baked on enamel finish, and if scratched, the paint will be removed and the bare metal below will be visible. However, due to the expansive properties of vinyl, aluminum siding takes paint better if you ever decide to re-paint. It is not recommended to paint vinyl.

Read more: http://www.doityourself.com/stry/vinlyandaluminumsidi#ixzz0uu6Z9ARq


Painting Vinyl Siding

This article is taken from the following source: http://www.askthebuilder.com/122_How_to_Paint_Aluminum_Siding.shtml

Summary: If you're looking for how to paint aluminum siding correctly, look no further. Aluminum siding can be repainted by using an oil based metal priming paint along with a 100 percent acrylic latex exterior house paint. Follow these tips below for long lasting siding color.

DEAR TIM: My husband and I just purchased a 25 year old house covered with aluminum siding. The siding is in excellent shape. It's factory painted finish has faded. In some areas the paint is completely worn down to the aluminum. Can aluminum siding be successfully repainted? I read a book that says to use a latex primer? Is this good advice? What else should I do to insure a professional job? P. A.

DEAR P. A.: The first thing I would do is throw away that book. It may contain some other questionable advice. Many latex primers are not suitable for use with weathered aluminum siding.

Sunshine, rain, and pollution erode all paints. The paint film develops tiny cracks and pinholes. These permit water and air to penetrate the actual siding. Aluminum isn't harmed by water, but air does cause problems. The air oxidizes the aluminum.

Just about every latex paint, including primer, contains ammonia. When ammonia comes into contact with oxidized aluminum it creates a gas. This gas can cause small bubbles to form beneath the paint film. This creates poor adhesion which in turn leads to premature paint failure.

A better alternative is to prime the weathered aluminum siding with a thinned down oil based metal priming paint. Leading manufacturers recommend using one pint of paint thinner to one gallon of high quality oil based primer. This primer creates a barrier between the oxidized aluminum and the finish paint. However, before you even think of mixing up and applying this primer, you need to prepare the surface for paint. If you read the labels on most paints, they will instruct you to apply the product to a clean, dry surface. How do you get yourself clean? Soap, I thought so!

Using any high quality powdered soap product, a heavy sponge, and a scrub brush, wash and rinse down your aluminum siding. You will notice that some of the old paint will wash off in this process. Don't be alarmed. Rinse the siding until no additional paint pigment can be detected in the rinse water. Avoid the use of a power washer for this job. Power washers, when used by a rookie, can direct water behind the aluminum siding. This may cause a leak into your home.

Allow the siding to dry for several days. Apply the thinned metal primer. Consider having the primer tinted to one half strength the color of your finish paint. Your finish coat should consist of a 100 percent acrylic latex exterior house paint. Buy the most expensive paint you can find. It usually contains the highest volume of acrylic paint resin. A higher volume of resin translates into a longer lasting paint job.

You should apply the finish coat of paint within 48 hours of applying the primer. Absolutely do not paint in direct sunlight or on windy days. These conditions reduce the dwell time of the paint. The finish paint needs to dry slowly to achieve the best mechanical and chemical bond. Cool, overcast days are the best for painting aluminum siding.


Vinyl Siding Maintenance and Painting

Yes! You Must Maintain Your Vinyl Siding.

Most people buy vinyl siding because it is maintenance free. The truth is, it is MORE maintenance free than other siding options, but still, there are a few minor maintenance issues.
Not surprisingly, vinyl siding Brooklyn needs to cleaned to remove the dirt and mildew that collects on the surface. A bucket with vinegar and water will do the job. You can brush it on and hose it off. It is better to just use your hose for washing vinyl siding because power sprayers can get water behind the panels.

If you install vinyl siding Queens with a brighter or darker color, rather than soft pastels or white, you are likely to notice the panels fading after about 10 years. Some people choose to actually paint the vinyl for this reason. Or perhaps you moved into a home with existing vinyl panels in some socially unacceptable color like avocado. In these cases you may want to actually paint the vinyl. After washing the house, use latex paint that will flex with the vinyl.

Benefits and Improvements in Vinyl Siding

As a result of recent improvements to the appearance and durability of vinyl siding in New York, vinyl siding is growing in popularity again. Vinyl also continues to be a cheaper option than many other siding choices and it is easy to install. Vinyl costs about $170.00 per square foot installed, excluding trim. By comparison, cedar clapboard costs over $4.00 per square foot installed.

Ultimately, vinyl is still a popular choice today for the same reason it was popular in the 50's - you don't have to paint it. This is a pretty big deal for most homeowners.

Vinyl is a a type of plastic made of chlorine and ethylene gas. Together these chemicals form a powder called vinyl resin. This resin is used to make many of the materials we use in our homes such as synthetic carpet or PVC pipe.

Thin vinyl panels are more likely to sag and possibly more likely to dent over time. Thicker panels or panels that have a folded-over, doubled nailing hem tend to be stiffer and more durable. The thinnest vinyl panels are ..035 inch thick up to .055-inch thick siding for the thickest panels.

Vinyl installation Bronx is not good for areas prone to high winds because it is not fastened as securely as wood siding to the house. Vinyl hangs loosly from nails at the top of each panel, allowing it to expand and contract with the weather.

Besides the wind, vinyl's loose connection to the house also means that it cannot be butted tighty to trim either. There needs to be clearance of about 1/4 inch. A J-channel covers and conceals the gap left. Other tirm pieces are made to mimic wood trim. These include soffits, rake boards and crown moldings.

Vinyl also has visible seams where the vinyl panels overlap. This is unsightly and should be installed in the most unobtrusive area possible by a qualified New York vinyl siding installation contractor.

Just like with wood siding, you need to install builder's felt or other waterproofing material beneath the vinyl. Because vinyl is so loose and it has small weep holes in the vinyl, it is unlikely to trap moisture.

All of these issues can be addressed with a Bronx or Queens vinyl siding contractor. Most vinyl manufacturers will certify installers with proper installation techniques for their vinyl siding products. You can also look for referrals from your neighbors or friends. Don't forget to check your BBB for complaints as well as state contractor licensing boards.

Vinyl Siding - Historic Charm?

Vinyl Siding - Ugly 50's whitewash or Period Charm?

In the 1950's many of the old houses and much of the post-war housing stock was covered with vinyl siding. It was used to cover many fine old Victorian homes as well as craftsman style homes. Like the aluminum siding that came before it, vinyl siding was heralded as the end to painting homes and praised for it's low maintenance and longevity. While it was certainly practical, it deleted so much of the elegance and character of the older building styles and many homeowners are not removing it and restoring the original wood clapboard siding and shingles along with the decorative elements like gingerbread that are so much a part of the original styles and bring so much characterist beauty to old homes. The old siding really did a diservice to so many neighborhoods, whitewashing them of their period character and making every home look the same in many cases.

Fortunately, vinyl siding has evolved with people's tastes and the old vinyl siding that erased historic charm is a thing of the past. In addition to erasin historic charm, the original vinyl siding was far from maintenance free, as it had claimed to be. Vinyl siding cracked, sagged and faded with time. Since that time, manufacturers have developed new chemical formulas to fix these problems and they have found suitable replicas of historic cladding and trim styles.

Thursday, July 22, 2010

Japanese Rain Chains

Do you have a beautiful home marred by ugly downspouts? You're not alone. Many people are opting to use rain chase in place of the traditional downspouts to effectively channel water away from their foundation while preserving the beauty of their house facade. Your new gutter installation Bronx can include rain chains in lieu of gutters. Alternatively, you may opt to replace your existing downspout with a rain chain.

You may have noticed them and wondered about how they work. Rain chains are hung from the cornerof your roof in place of your downpout. They are hung from the corners of your roof or canale to guide the flow of water into large barrels to catch the water from the roof for household purposes and gardening. They can also be designed to lead the water away from your foundation into rocky swale or catch basin. Rain chains do exactly what downspouts do, but they do it in a way that is attractive and allows you to see the rain as it swooshes down the chain. Copper rain chains develop a rich blue-green patina.

The other benefit of rainchains is that they can be installed quickly by your gutter installer Queens in a short time period and can be integrated with your existing gutter system Bronx.

You can use chains that can be purchased at a local hardware store or you can talk to your gutter installer Bronx to see if they have access to custom designed chains. For extra artistic appeal, you may choose to put a ceramic or stoneware pot beneath the chain - use one that has good drainage at the bottom.

Types of Gutter Systems for your New York Home

Your new gutter installation involves many personal choices that will effect the appearance, cost and functionality of installing new gutters. Besides materials such as copper, aluminum, steel and vinyl, you will also need to decide what shape and size you want your new gutter system to be. There are two shapes to choose from, half-round and K-style gutters Brooklyn. Both shapes will drain the same amount of water so it is really a matter of your personal taste. Half-round gutters are traditional and best used with traditional homes such as victorians.

Your new gutter installation will include downspouts in round or rectangular shapes. Downspout size and gutter size are two other considerations. The most common gutter sizes are 5" and 6". Downspouts are 2x3 inches and 3x4 inches in size.

Your gutter installer will help you to determine the rainfall needs of your Bronx, Queen or Brooklyn home. Generally speaking, the more rainfall your area gets, the greater larger your gutter system needs to be. In addition, the rainfall, your gutter contractor will look at your roofline and yard to determine your needs. For example, if you have a steep roof, you will need a larger gutter system to handle the runnoff. Tall trees will fill your gutters with leaves in the fall and may require screening to keep your gutters from clogging.

Thickness of the material you choose will have a direct impact on durability and price. Also, copper is rated by weight rather than thickness.

The next decision you will need to make is whether your gutter system is seemless or has seams. Do it your selfers will probably find it easier to use a vinyl gutter with seams for ease of installation. However, seamless gutters are typically more attractive and more durable.

Sectional copper or steel systems are actually soldered together at the seams, eliminating the need for a sealant. Proper installation of a sectional copper or steel system should include soldering, although some installers will use a metal sealant. Seamless systems are growing in popularity, and require professional installers. In a seamless system, an installer will use a special machine on-site to form long stretches of gutter (usually copper or aluminum) that will run the length of the roofline without a seam.

Gutter installation should follow a couple basic rules. Gutters must be pitched so water will flow to the downspouts. The rule of thumb for this slope is a vertical 1/2 inch for every 10 feet of horizontal run. If the run is more than 35 feet long, some specialists recommend installing the high point of the system in the middle and sloping the gutter downward in both directions to downspouts on both ends of the run. Water exiting the downspout must always be directed away from the foundation.

There are so many accessories available for your gutters to choose from - some of which may not be necessary to keep things out of your gutters. These include screens and barriers that keep things out of the gutters. You need to think about what kind of things are going to get into your gutters and clog them before buying these accessories. Then, check the numerous types of screens and flow-through devices for their different applications.

Finally, you will want to consider where the water goes when exiting the downspout. Downspouts should flow away from the foundation and ideally, the water needs to go somewhere where there is ample drainage like a rocky swale or catch basin. This keeps your basement or crawl space from flooding with heavy rains.


Gutter Options for your New York Home

Everyone should have some sort of gutter on their house to divert the rain. New York City rainfall can cause significant damage without diverting rain run-off. This is important to protect your crawl spaces, basements and siding. Not having gutters in place will cause more damage in the long run and with increased moisture, your termite problems could increase substantially. There are many systems to choose from.

There are so many systems to choose from now. The most expensive - as well as most attractive and durable- of these is copper. Aluminium and vinyl are the most economical and most widely used options. You can also use galvanized steel and wood for historic buildings. Bronx Gutter Installers will price your gutter system based on linear foot. Make sure that the price you get is in writing and includdes all the necessary components. The components include gutters, downspouts, hanging brackets, end caps and corner joints.

Aluminum gutter systems is the most commonly used product; it is inexpensive and durable. You can get it in many different colors to match your house and, depending upon the contractor, you can expect to pay around $3-6 per linear foot for your Brooklyn gutter.

Steel gutters may be good option for New York homes, with their exposure to snow, winds and heavy rains. Steel is stronger than aluminum and stands up to these elements without as much damage as aluminum. There are a couple cons to using steel gutters. First, they tend to rust, so it is important that you buy galvanized steel which should hold together for about 20 years without rusting. The second con is that it is more expensive than aluminum - about twice as much per linear foot. You can buy stainless steel, but it is $20 per linear foot as compared to $8-10 per linear foot.

Vinyl is a great option for price and durability, especially if you want to do the work yourself. It is easy to cut and install for a homeowner. Vinyl is also the cheapest gutter system you can buy at $3-5 per linear foot. It is also widely available at home improvement stores. The downside of vinyl is that it can break in cold climates and is not as sturdy as metal gutter systems. This is partly because the material is brittle but also because vinyl has seems that make it more prone to leaking and breaking.

Copper is the priciest gutter to install Queens and it is frequently seen in upscale homes, many times you will see it at the front of a home with less expensive aluminum used at the back. I have even seen aluminum gutters painted to look like copper patina. Copper is $12-$25 per linear foot. The shiny copper look that homeowners may be looking for will quickly turn shades as it is exposed to the elements. You need to keep this in mind and be able to appreciate the changes in store for your gutter system installation.

The last option is to choose a material for your gutters and combine it with decorative Japanese-style rain chains which start around $20 -$50 for basic models and can run $50 -$200 or more.

Regardless of the option you choose, make sure you have gutters on your home to protect your basement and crawlspace from unneccessary damage and flooding.