Vinyl siding was first introduced to the exterior cladding market in the early 1960s and steadily grew in popularity over the next four decades because of its durability, versatility and ease of maintenance. The product is manufactured primarily with polyvinyl chloride (PVC), a material that gives it impact resistance, rigidity and strength.
PVC starts with two simple building blocks: chlorine (57%) from common salt and ethylene (43%) from natural gas. Most of the natural gas utilized to manufacture ethylene is domestically produced, which reduces consumption of imported oil products.
Today, vinyl siding is the number one choice of exterior cladding across the United States and Canada. In fact, U.S. Census Bureau statistics show twice as many homeowners side their homes with vinyl than with any other material. Vinyl siding is available in a broad palette of colors, profiles and architectural trim to assist architects, builders and homeowners in customizing their new construction and renovation designs, and can complement historical restoration projects.
Taken from: http://www.vinylsiding.org/aboutsiding/
Monday, June 28, 2010
Rot happens, even to the best of houses. All it takes is wood, water, and warmth, and before you know it solid lumber turns to mush. Exterior trim is the most vulnerable to attack by rot fungi, and it doesn't have to be very old; the trim shown on these pages was installed only 10 years ago.
Fortunately, rotted trim is generally easy to repair. (Rot-infested framing or mudsills pose a much bigger problem.) But before you can fix it, you have to find it. With screwdriver or awl in hand, scrutinize areas that are nearly horizontal and don't drain well, such as windowsills, drip caps, and water tables. Look for paint that is cracked, peeling, or blistering, or wood that's darker than the surrounding area or green with algae. Probe anywhere there's end grain, which wicks up water like a celery stalk in a grade-school science experiment. Pay particular attention to joints, which dry slowly, and to all wood that's close to dirt, concrete, or masonry. If you're able to push the tool's tip easily into a suspect board, then it's time to root out the rot.
When rot afflicts a relatively confined area, filling the damage with two-part epoxy resin is a smart option that yields a seamless repair and doesn't require a lot of experience. Here, John Stahl of Advanced Repair Technology, who restored the old windows for This Old House TV projects in Milton and Salem, Mass., takes us through a typical repair of a rotted window mullion.
1. Remove rot-softened wood
After clawing out the loose stuff with a hammer, Stahl removes all the rot-softened wood with a die grinder and core-box router bit. For an epoxy repair to be effective, the freshly exposed wood has to be sound and dry—less than 18 percent moisture content. Stahl checks it with a moisture meter before proceeding.
2. Inject borate into holes
The undisturbed area at the bottom right of the mullion is an old epoxy repair, around which the wood continued to rot. To ensure that won't happen again, Stahl injects a borate wood preservative into holes drilled halfway into the wood. Sealed over with epoxy, the borate penetrates the wood, minimizing the chance of future decay.
3. Brush on epoxy primer
A two-part epoxy primer brushed on the exposed wood ensures that the final repair will bond to the surface. After waiting about 15 minutes for the thin liquid to penetrate, Stahl wipes off the excess with a paper towel. The surface is now ready for a coat of the two-part epoxy filler.
4. Blend the resin and hardener
Stahl pumps the two components of the epoxy filler—resin and hardener—onto a plastic board, then blends them thoroughly with a plastic putty knife. Epoxy doesn’t stick to hard plastic surfaces, so the board and putty knife can be cleaned and reused.
5. Sculpt the epoxy
Using the same plastic putty knife, Stahl sculpts the viscous epoxy into shape. The mix remains workable for about 30 to 45 minutes (longer in cool weather and shorter when it’s hot).
6. Paint the epoxy
Epoxy breaks down in sunlight, so it needs to be painted. The next day, after the repair hardens, Stahl sands it smooth, first with 80-grit paper, then 100-grit, then 220-grit. An acrylic primer is next, followed by two coats of 100-percent acrylic paint.
If the damage is too extensive for a simple epoxy repair, try:
•Replacing the Decayed Area with a Wood Patch, or Dutchman
•Replacing the Entire Piece of Trim
By: Andy Engel http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/how-to/step/0,,20171567,00.html
Fortunately, rotted trim is generally easy to repair. (Rot-infested framing or mudsills pose a much bigger problem.) But before you can fix it, you have to find it. With screwdriver or awl in hand, scrutinize areas that are nearly horizontal and don't drain well, such as windowsills, drip caps, and water tables. Look for paint that is cracked, peeling, or blistering, or wood that's darker than the surrounding area or green with algae. Probe anywhere there's end grain, which wicks up water like a celery stalk in a grade-school science experiment. Pay particular attention to joints, which dry slowly, and to all wood that's close to dirt, concrete, or masonry. If you're able to push the tool's tip easily into a suspect board, then it's time to root out the rot.
When rot afflicts a relatively confined area, filling the damage with two-part epoxy resin is a smart option that yields a seamless repair and doesn't require a lot of experience. Here, John Stahl of Advanced Repair Technology, who restored the old windows for This Old House TV projects in Milton and Salem, Mass., takes us through a typical repair of a rotted window mullion.
1. Remove rot-softened wood
After clawing out the loose stuff with a hammer, Stahl removes all the rot-softened wood with a die grinder and core-box router bit. For an epoxy repair to be effective, the freshly exposed wood has to be sound and dry—less than 18 percent moisture content. Stahl checks it with a moisture meter before proceeding.
2. Inject borate into holes
The undisturbed area at the bottom right of the mullion is an old epoxy repair, around which the wood continued to rot. To ensure that won't happen again, Stahl injects a borate wood preservative into holes drilled halfway into the wood. Sealed over with epoxy, the borate penetrates the wood, minimizing the chance of future decay.
3. Brush on epoxy primer
A two-part epoxy primer brushed on the exposed wood ensures that the final repair will bond to the surface. After waiting about 15 minutes for the thin liquid to penetrate, Stahl wipes off the excess with a paper towel. The surface is now ready for a coat of the two-part epoxy filler.
4. Blend the resin and hardener
Stahl pumps the two components of the epoxy filler—resin and hardener—onto a plastic board, then blends them thoroughly with a plastic putty knife. Epoxy doesn’t stick to hard plastic surfaces, so the board and putty knife can be cleaned and reused.
5. Sculpt the epoxy
Using the same plastic putty knife, Stahl sculpts the viscous epoxy into shape. The mix remains workable for about 30 to 45 minutes (longer in cool weather and shorter when it’s hot).
6. Paint the epoxy
Epoxy breaks down in sunlight, so it needs to be painted. The next day, after the repair hardens, Stahl sands it smooth, first with 80-grit paper, then 100-grit, then 220-grit. An acrylic primer is next, followed by two coats of 100-percent acrylic paint.
If the damage is too extensive for a simple epoxy repair, try:
•Replacing the Decayed Area with a Wood Patch, or Dutchman
•Replacing the Entire Piece of Trim
By: Andy Engel http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/how-to/step/0,,20171567,00.html
Pros and Cons of Aluminum Siding
The best part about aluminum siding Bronx is that maintenance is lower than any other siding type. You can also paint it infrequently because the paint lasts longer than other siding options as long as you paint it properly.
On the negative side, aluminum dents happen easily. If you have aluminum siding Queens, be sure to use caution around it. The simplest thing such as a ladder dropped against aluminum siding Brooklyn can cause it to dent.
On the negative side, aluminum dents happen easily. If you have aluminum siding Queens, be sure to use caution around it. The simplest thing such as a ladder dropped against aluminum siding Brooklyn can cause it to dent.
Keeping Aluminum Siding Clean
Exposure to sun, pollution, and the elements can turn siding chalky, faded, and porous, allowing dirt and mildew to penetrate the surface. I would try pressure washing, first with straight water on low pressure. If that's not getting the job done, do a test wash at high pressure in a place that's not highly visible. Some pressure washers develop pressure great enough to break a 2x4, and the last thing you want is to damage siding with high pressure. Then try scrubbing it with a biodegradable detergent or trisodium phosphate and hosing down with a low-pressure spray.
Written by Steve Thomas http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/asktoh/question/0,,216407,00.html
Written by Steve Thomas http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/asktoh/question/0,,216407,00.html
Vinyl Siding (Continued)
GETTING A QUALITY JOB
If you were to throw the names of the top 10 vinyl siding companies in a hat and pick one, you would probably end up with quality siding. Do the same with 10 local contractors, and the installation quality would be far less certain. A contractor's expertise and experience are crucial to a good siding job.
The reason is the material itself. Because vinyl expands and contracts so much, even the most expensive siding will buckle and warp if not put on correctly. Experienced contractors take a number of steps to keep this from happening. For example, panels are installed with a 1/4-in. clearance at all openings and stops, such as where a panel butts up against a window or comes to a corner of the house. That clearance is increased to 3/8 in. when siding is installed in temperatures below 32°F.
You'll also see a row of slots at the top of each panel. Your siding contractor should drive his nails through the center of the slots, leaving a small space, about 1/32 in., between the nail head and siding. That allows each panel to move slightly with temperature changes.
Because installation is so important, check references of any contractor you're considering. Request written estimates, then visit past jobs and a current project to give them a thorough once-over. Look for these details:
•Rigid insulation. It provides a smooth surface for the siding, adds some insulating value and cuts air infiltration. Joints between rigid insulation panels should be taped for maximum energy savings. It's a small task, but signals quality.
•Corrosion-resistant nails. Look for aluminum or hot-dipped galvanized nails.
•Straight courses. Examine both sides of windows and doors. Panels should continue from one side to the next in perfect alignment. If they're uneven, the job will look sloppy. The same holds true at corners.
•Detailing around openings. The J-channel that receives the panel ends should be neat and precise. Look for mitered corners and smooth caulking application.
•A clean job site. Contractors should clean up at the end of each day. Materials and tools should be covered and protected. Debris should be picked up for disposal.
By: Fran J. Donegan http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/article/0,,213532-3,00.html
If you were to throw the names of the top 10 vinyl siding companies in a hat and pick one, you would probably end up with quality siding. Do the same with 10 local contractors, and the installation quality would be far less certain. A contractor's expertise and experience are crucial to a good siding job.
The reason is the material itself. Because vinyl expands and contracts so much, even the most expensive siding will buckle and warp if not put on correctly. Experienced contractors take a number of steps to keep this from happening. For example, panels are installed with a 1/4-in. clearance at all openings and stops, such as where a panel butts up against a window or comes to a corner of the house. That clearance is increased to 3/8 in. when siding is installed in temperatures below 32°F.
You'll also see a row of slots at the top of each panel. Your siding contractor should drive his nails through the center of the slots, leaving a small space, about 1/32 in., between the nail head and siding. That allows each panel to move slightly with temperature changes.
Because installation is so important, check references of any contractor you're considering. Request written estimates, then visit past jobs and a current project to give them a thorough once-over. Look for these details:
•Rigid insulation. It provides a smooth surface for the siding, adds some insulating value and cuts air infiltration. Joints between rigid insulation panels should be taped for maximum energy savings. It's a small task, but signals quality.
•Corrosion-resistant nails. Look for aluminum or hot-dipped galvanized nails.
•Straight courses. Examine both sides of windows and doors. Panels should continue from one side to the next in perfect alignment. If they're uneven, the job will look sloppy. The same holds true at corners.
•Detailing around openings. The J-channel that receives the panel ends should be neat and precise. Look for mitered corners and smooth caulking application.
•A clean job site. Contractors should clean up at the end of each day. Materials and tools should be covered and protected. Debris should be picked up for disposal.
By: Fran J. Donegan http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/article/0,,213532-3,00.html
Vinyl Siding Choices
Even if you aren't sure you want to to put vinyl siding on your home, you've probably at least considered it. Why? For most homeowners, it means eliminating the hassle and expense of repainting their house every five years or so - or paying someone else to do it.
Besides saving work, vinyl siding can save you money. According to Rod Matthews, business manager/siding for Toledo, Ohio-based Owens Corning, vinyl siding costs about 11 percent less than cedar siding, and 26 percent less than aluminum. Expect to pay $160 to $250 per square (100 sq. ft.) for a quality vinyl product installed over rigid insulation.
For these reasons, vinyl has become the most popular choice in siding. More than one-third of the exterior cladding installed on new and existing homes is vinyl. The balance is wood, aluminum, steel, brick or stucco.
If new siding is in your future, keep these three key considerations in mind when looking at the vinyl option:
1. Vinyl siding isn't for everyone; you have to like the way it looks on your house.
2. Not all vinyl is created equal; you'll need to learn how to pick a quality product.
3. You'll need a competent contractor. Proper installation is at least as important as product quality.
IS VINYL SIDING FOR YOU?
Purists sneer at the idea of wrapping houses - particularly older homes that have significant architectural detail - in "plastic." Other common objections are that vinyl siding can't hold its color without fading or yellowing, that it buckles in the heat and that it can mask serious problems with moisture in the walls. These were worthy concerns in the past, but vast improvements have been made in vinyl siding since it first appeared.
Take a look at some of the new vinyl siding products. Typically they have a low-gloss finish that more closely resembles painted wood. Most manufacturers also offer realistic-looking grain patterns and have improved the look of trim pieces. Fading and yellowing aren't major concerns with better vinyl siding products, nor is their rigidity if they are correctly installed.
If you still aren't sure you like vinyl, see how it looks on other houses in your area. You'll know if it's vinyl by looking at the corners. With vinyl, cap strips on the inside and outside corners cover the edges of the panels; clapboard and shingles usually have mitered edges at the corners or a trim piece installed flush with the siding.
Then ask a local realtor how vinyl affects home values in your area. It will probably have a positive effect on most houses. But, John Leeke, a home-restoration consultant in Portland, Maine, warns against installing vinyl on homes in historic neighborhoods. "If there are 10 restored Victorians on a street and one has vinyl siding, the value of the one sided in vinyl will suffer," he says. That doesn't mean older houses can't be sided with vinyl. Manufacturers now offer period patterns, including details like fish-scale shingles that are found on older homes. Again, look at other houses in your area. If others have vinyl siding, it's far less likely to diminish the value of your home.
Another caveat is vinyl's dubious ability to mask trouble beneath. Painted wood often peels or chips when there's a problem, but vinyl offers no such clues. Be sure leaks, moisture condensation problems and any structural defects have been addressed before the siding goes on.
JUDGING QUALITY SIDING
Technically polyvinyl chloride (PVC), the vinyl that's used in siding includes a number of additives that help it resist fading, protect it against ultraviolet rays and provide dozens of color choices. (The color goes all the way through the material, so it can't flake off.)
What you see. Vinyl siding comes in textured or smooth panels. Those with a simulated wood grain are meant to imitate rough-sawn wood that's been stained. Panels are available in horizontal and vertical configurations. Horizontal siding tends to look best on traditional houses, while vertical panels fit well with many contemporary designs.
There are also a number of widths. You'll find 8-in.-wide panels or panels that look like two 5-in. or three 3-in. courses of siding. Panels are complemented by vinyl soffit, window trim and other accessories.
Below the surface. Vinyl siding standards are covered by the American Society of Testing and Materials (ASTM) Standard 3679. Any vinyl siding you buy should have this designation on product fact sheets and packaging. This is a minimum standard, however. To pick a product that exceeds the minimum standard, follow these guidelines:
•Panels should be at least .040 in. thick; .042 to .045 is better. The ASTM standard requires only .035 in.
•Soffit panels should be about .05 in. thick. Because soffits are suspended horizontally and secured at the edges only, the extra thickness prevents panels from sagging.
•Look for antiweathering protection - sunlight is deadly to raw vinyl. While the actual ingredients designed to keep vinyl from fading and degrading are proprietary, a common one is titanium oxide. You can also get an idea of a product's durability by asking the dealer or contractor to explain why and how it will resist weathering.
•The warranty is another clue to how weather resistant a product is. Few building products come with the long warranties offered by vinyl manufacturers. Fifty years is standard. Some products even come with a lifetime warranty that can be transferred to the next owner of your home.
However, some warranties are prorated: The longer the siding lasts, the less the company will pay. Make sure you read the fine print. Some manufacturers only promise to recoat rather than merely replace damaged siding. And most warranties just pay for the product - not the labor for installation.
Taken from: Fran J. Donegan - This Old House Online
Besides saving work, vinyl siding can save you money. According to Rod Matthews, business manager/siding for Toledo, Ohio-based Owens Corning, vinyl siding costs about 11 percent less than cedar siding, and 26 percent less than aluminum. Expect to pay $160 to $250 per square (100 sq. ft.) for a quality vinyl product installed over rigid insulation.
For these reasons, vinyl has become the most popular choice in siding. More than one-third of the exterior cladding installed on new and existing homes is vinyl. The balance is wood, aluminum, steel, brick or stucco.
If new siding is in your future, keep these three key considerations in mind when looking at the vinyl option:
1. Vinyl siding isn't for everyone; you have to like the way it looks on your house.
2. Not all vinyl is created equal; you'll need to learn how to pick a quality product.
3. You'll need a competent contractor. Proper installation is at least as important as product quality.
IS VINYL SIDING FOR YOU?
Purists sneer at the idea of wrapping houses - particularly older homes that have significant architectural detail - in "plastic." Other common objections are that vinyl siding can't hold its color without fading or yellowing, that it buckles in the heat and that it can mask serious problems with moisture in the walls. These were worthy concerns in the past, but vast improvements have been made in vinyl siding since it first appeared.
Take a look at some of the new vinyl siding products. Typically they have a low-gloss finish that more closely resembles painted wood. Most manufacturers also offer realistic-looking grain patterns and have improved the look of trim pieces. Fading and yellowing aren't major concerns with better vinyl siding products, nor is their rigidity if they are correctly installed.
If you still aren't sure you like vinyl, see how it looks on other houses in your area. You'll know if it's vinyl by looking at the corners. With vinyl, cap strips on the inside and outside corners cover the edges of the panels; clapboard and shingles usually have mitered edges at the corners or a trim piece installed flush with the siding.
Then ask a local realtor how vinyl affects home values in your area. It will probably have a positive effect on most houses. But, John Leeke, a home-restoration consultant in Portland, Maine, warns against installing vinyl on homes in historic neighborhoods. "If there are 10 restored Victorians on a street and one has vinyl siding, the value of the one sided in vinyl will suffer," he says. That doesn't mean older houses can't be sided with vinyl. Manufacturers now offer period patterns, including details like fish-scale shingles that are found on older homes. Again, look at other houses in your area. If others have vinyl siding, it's far less likely to diminish the value of your home.
Another caveat is vinyl's dubious ability to mask trouble beneath. Painted wood often peels or chips when there's a problem, but vinyl offers no such clues. Be sure leaks, moisture condensation problems and any structural defects have been addressed before the siding goes on.
JUDGING QUALITY SIDING
Technically polyvinyl chloride (PVC), the vinyl that's used in siding includes a number of additives that help it resist fading, protect it against ultraviolet rays and provide dozens of color choices. (The color goes all the way through the material, so it can't flake off.)
What you see. Vinyl siding comes in textured or smooth panels. Those with a simulated wood grain are meant to imitate rough-sawn wood that's been stained. Panels are available in horizontal and vertical configurations. Horizontal siding tends to look best on traditional houses, while vertical panels fit well with many contemporary designs.
There are also a number of widths. You'll find 8-in.-wide panels or panels that look like two 5-in. or three 3-in. courses of siding. Panels are complemented by vinyl soffit, window trim and other accessories.
Below the surface. Vinyl siding standards are covered by the American Society of Testing and Materials (ASTM) Standard 3679. Any vinyl siding you buy should have this designation on product fact sheets and packaging. This is a minimum standard, however. To pick a product that exceeds the minimum standard, follow these guidelines:
•Panels should be at least .040 in. thick; .042 to .045 is better. The ASTM standard requires only .035 in.
•Soffit panels should be about .05 in. thick. Because soffits are suspended horizontally and secured at the edges only, the extra thickness prevents panels from sagging.
•Look for antiweathering protection - sunlight is deadly to raw vinyl. While the actual ingredients designed to keep vinyl from fading and degrading are proprietary, a common one is titanium oxide. You can also get an idea of a product's durability by asking the dealer or contractor to explain why and how it will resist weathering.
•The warranty is another clue to how weather resistant a product is. Few building products come with the long warranties offered by vinyl manufacturers. Fifty years is standard. Some products even come with a lifetime warranty that can be transferred to the next owner of your home.
However, some warranties are prorated: The longer the siding lasts, the less the company will pay. Make sure you read the fine print. Some manufacturers only promise to recoat rather than merely replace damaged siding. And most warranties just pay for the product - not the labor for installation.
Taken from: Fran J. Donegan - This Old House Online
Friday, June 25, 2010
Is a chimney rebuild inevitable for your New York Home?
Do you have a leak in your chimney that is filling your fireplace or insert up with water? Have you looked into hiring a contractor and found the price unpalatable? There may be another option, depending upon the source of the problem.
There may be a few different options - the most obvious being chimney repair. Sometimes, you just need to put a cap on your chimney to keep the rainwater from entering through the top of the chimney and pooling in your fireplace insert. This is a simple and cheap fix to solve your Bronx Chimney Dilemma.
You can have the flue inspected by a licensed and bonded chimney sweep as well. They will tell you if there is a problem with the lining, if lining exists. If the liner is cracked or non-existent, a metal flue liner can be inserted into the firebox and the insert will need to be removed. Your chimney sweep can also tell you if the mortar joints need re-pointing and if the step flashing where the chimney meets the roof needs to be replaced.
The other option is to add some support for the Queens chimney and a fix for the leak. Over time, the chimney will degrade if it is a cobble or brick chimney. The mortar between the bricks or stones decays and weakens the chimney. If you install supports around the chimney that are bolted to your rafters, this will add support.
These are just a few of the options for your New York Chimney repair that will save you a lot of money over rebuilding your old chimney. Email us at A Real Advantage Construction for a quote.
There may be a few different options - the most obvious being chimney repair. Sometimes, you just need to put a cap on your chimney to keep the rainwater from entering through the top of the chimney and pooling in your fireplace insert. This is a simple and cheap fix to solve your Bronx Chimney Dilemma.
You can have the flue inspected by a licensed and bonded chimney sweep as well. They will tell you if there is a problem with the lining, if lining exists. If the liner is cracked or non-existent, a metal flue liner can be inserted into the firebox and the insert will need to be removed. Your chimney sweep can also tell you if the mortar joints need re-pointing and if the step flashing where the chimney meets the roof needs to be replaced.
The other option is to add some support for the Queens chimney and a fix for the leak. Over time, the chimney will degrade if it is a cobble or brick chimney. The mortar between the bricks or stones decays and weakens the chimney. If you install supports around the chimney that are bolted to your rafters, this will add support.
These are just a few of the options for your New York Chimney repair that will save you a lot of money over rebuilding your old chimney. Email us at A Real Advantage Construction for a quote.
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